As I wrote last night we had two long museum visits and then hurried off to see the patriarch.  Because of tensions with Somalia, Yemi submitted our passport numbers, etc. a few weeks ago.  Yemi and Daniel had never before met the patriarch.  I forgot to mention that Daniel is our driver – incredibly patient, unassuming, kind and gently assertive on the road.  He is a deacon, a kind of ideal deacon.  They seemed so deeply moved by this experience.  Abi and I think Yemi too are fasting in preparation for Timkat.  As I have mentioned their piety is extraordinary.

The guards at the Patriarch’s palace loved Micah.  They immediately took him by the hand and walked everywhere with him.  We met the patriarch’s secretary and she took us upstairs to see Abuna Paulos.  He sat at the head of our white leather chairs and couches.  The American visitors shook and kissed his hand.  The Ethiopians prostrated themselves on the carpet and kissed his shoes.  Abuna Paulos listened very patiently to the Americans who presented him with the new Lutheran worshiop book and half a dozen pamphlets, etc. describing St. Gregory of Nyssa Church in San Francisco and its efforts to employ Ethiopian church practices, liturgical action, religious art, etc.  The abuna took issue with their icon of the dancing Christ because Jesus is too special for the dance.  He said dancing is the way we honor Jesus.  The St. Gregory’s group pointed out that for them the practice arises out of Gregory of Nyssa’s commentary in which he describes Jesus as the leader of all creation’s dance.

Abuna Paulos has a very kind face and manner.  He spoke only a sentence and a half before looking at Heidi and then asking to make sure everyone spoke English.  Abuna talked about the ancient origins of Judaism and Christianity.  Ethiopia is mentioned in Psalm 67, Isaiah, etc.  Christianity for him had its origin in 41 A.D. when Philip baptized the Ethiopian eunuch who then brought Christianity back to his country.  Secular historians don’t necessarily agree with this account or the legend of the Queen of Seba who with her son tricked King Solomon and brought the arck of the covenant to Ethiopia.  The power of the stories here is extraordinary.  The richness of life and culture is a blessing to the world.

After Abuna finished with his historical summary he talked about the character of his people’s faith.  He said that regardless of the country’s form of political governance the faith of the people is simple and constant.  He talked about how although his people are very, very poor, they are rich in faith.  When asked about the large number of young people in the church, he remarked on this again.

He talked about how different life is here in comparison with the modern industrialized societies where there are so many things to do.  He wants the country to modernize and doesn’t know what will happen to the church when it does.  All he knows is that he won’t be around then.  Abuna was born in 1928, he’s two years younger than Queen Elizabeth.  He is a monk and was consecrated as a bishop in 1968.  After the communists came to power and he studied for a few years at Princeton Seminary, Abuna spent 8 years in prison.  According to Rick, the metropolitan in charge of American orthodox churches regarded Abuna as a collaborator (I suppose this was because he wasn’t martyred in prison) and rejects his authority.  As a result although Abuna spent time in America both as a student and then for years in exile, many American Ethiopian churches do not recognize his authority.  This metropolitan recently died so I believe that this may become an issue again.

I’ll always remember Melia asking the bishop about his pectoral crosses, prayer beads, etc. and at the end of the whole interview exclaiming with great gusto to him, “I love your outfit!”  I was also deeply touched when Micah said, “My dad needs a lot of help at his church in California, could you send a bishop to help him?”  Abuna gently said he was confident I could do it on my own.  I, of course, know better.  Meeting Abuna was an extraordinary event in my life.  His piety and gentleness inspire me.

Speaking with Abuna reminded me of a theological assertion that I’ve heard many orthodox people make, that the true church is unchanging.  There is a way in which I believe this is true.  What Jesus taught about loving God and neighbor will always be true.  For the patriarch it seems like the unchanging truth includes the teaching of the church fathers, even the 5:30 a.m. time for starting church and the Ge’ez language which required for chanting.  To American believers he says these are the traditions of the church, either wake up early or don’t go.

My point is that there are changes.  Recognize them and develop some kind of standard that will help determine what changes are acceptable, necessary or distort the faith.  Having loudspeakers that broadcast the chanted liturgy outside is a change.  What makes this change appropriate and the ordination of women so inconceivable?  This holds for liturgy, social positions like the use of birth control and especially for me, the ordination of women.